The Great Fur Debacle
The Pros and Cons of the Anti-Fur Movement
The fur dilemma is a tremendous one. On one side are those that vehemently oppose the use of fur in any sort of fashion setting, citing the abhorrent animal cruelty issues. On the other side are those that still support the use of fur, citing the potential for the potential loss of jobs for fur industry workers as well as potential for environmental hazard in the breakdown of synthetic materials used to replace fur. I will be discussing a number of these issues, showcasing designers and recent events in the movement, the opinions of those that are anti-fur, those on the fence, and those who are still pro-fur, as well as providing my own take on the matter at hand.
"And once you approach fur you should possibly approach the larger issue of sustainability and environment and maybe much more, all issues that our company is committed to...the subject is serious and has to be addressed, but let's not forget it's a small part of a much bigger picture that needs the same attention." -Miuccia Prada
There has been a tectonic shift in the industry in regard to showing fur on the runway and designers using it in their garments. Previously, fur had been widely displayed by designers, but a younger audience has come out against the use of fur due to the treatment of animals in the fur industry. Numerous designers have committed to not using fur in the future, from Gucci, Michael Kors, and Versace to those who have not shown fur in years, like Ralph Lauren and Armani. Even more recently, London Fashion Week banned the use of fur in their Runway shows entirely, a distinctly unprecedented but welcome move.
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| Independent |
As previously listed, numerous designers have come out against using fur in their designs, opting to either go the faux fur route or removing it entirely. More recent defectors include Jimmy Choo and Brooks Brothers. Joining them in April of this year, fashion magazine InStyle banned fur in its advertisements, editorials, photography and overall content. In September, Los Angeles banned the sale of fur, giving retailers through 2020 to sell off inventories. With this ban, LA became the largest municipal area in the US to ban fur sales. Previously, San Francisco was the largest, having banned fur sales in March of 2018. West Hollywood also banned sales in 2013.
"I don't want to kill animals to make fashion...I have started to think about legacy, the next generations and leaving a better future." -Donatella Versace
Shearling and leather are considered less criminal as they are considered an animal by-product. Many designers continue to use these products in their designs. PETA and other anti-fur backers consider this a success in the movement forward. “It’s definitely a big step. We would love to see people design without leather and without any animal products. But what’s happening now as these designers have shed their fur lines, it starts the ball rolling,” said Dan Mathews, Senior VP of PETA. Another substitution is the greater adoption of faux fur in designer collections. “Advances with fake have opened new creative vistas, making working with real fur less essential to their work” (Foley). This allows designers to utilize a fur look while appeasing their audience at the same time.
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| Faux fur shown by Givenchy for Spring 2019. |
So, why are so many designers coming out against fur now? The current social media ecosystem draws greater attention to these brands and what they are doing. When those customers can quickly see and hear what designers do on a constant basis, it can cause brand defections and hurt that designer’s bottom line. While many would refute this claim, the timing is certainly a question to ponder. Michael Kors only recently came out against fur usage – being the subject of numerous animal rights displays. Other designers such as Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, and Dries Van Noten are still on the fence on this issue. While Marc Jacobs only showed fake fur recently, he has not come out against using fur. He stated, “In the world we live in right now, I think it’s impossible to not be sensitive to the things that people take issue with.” Like Jacobs, Ford does not claim to be fur-free, but he also made the point that he does not know the right answer to the fur question.
"You can say, 'OK, you don't want to be cruel to animals,' but maybe once you know how about the environment and all these things to make this [fake] fur, so it's a little bit of a double thing. So, my answer is, I don't know." -Dries Van Noten
On the other hand, there are designers and organizations that continue to support the use of fur not only in their designs, but throughout the industry as well. Mark Oaten, CEO of the International Fur Federation, is one of those proponents of the fur industry. “Our product is totally natural, and even if it has chemicals added to it, it biodegrades,” he said. “The other product is made of fibers and materials, which will not biodegrade.” Fake fur is made of synthetic fibers that are created in labs, and some of its chemical makeup is toxic prior to the final steps of fiber creation. While the industry is making strides in recycling and reusing this product, there is not yet a perfect answer to the breakdown of these synthetic materials.
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| We Are Fur |
Personally, I think we can figure out a better solution to this issue. Animal cruelty is unacceptable in all forms – whether as a byproduct or with animals farmed specifically for the fur trade. Synthetic fibers are well on their way to being sustainable, which is where I think the focus needs to be. Many brands are retooling operations to be much more sustainable in recycling fibers and using synthetic materials that are constantly advancing. This is a topic I will explore further in a later blog.
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